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Monthly Archives: April 2013

It’s that time of year again!  The sun is showing itself more and more often, you’re getting anxious for summer vacations, family barbeques, and just relaxing outside on your deck and enjoying the sweet smell of summer in the Northwest.

Question is… is it time to recoat that deck again?

Maintenance of your deck is the single most important thing in keeping the wood conditioned and protected from the NW winters.  Typically in the Pacific NW, a decks horizontal surface should be recoated every 2-3 years depending on exposure to weather. The vertical rails and such can go a little longer.  Is your deck partially covered?  To keep those uncovered areas looking as good as the others this is crucial to keep up on.

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How do you know it’s really time to recoat?  Well, it should be weathered. Visually inspect the surface coating and when it appears faded and spray the surface with water.  If it penetrates and turns the wood dark due to the moisture, this is an indication that it’s time for a new coat. If it still repels water you do not need to recoat at this time.

Keeping up on this ritual is the most important thing to ensure your deck lasts for season’s to come.

~mg

 

Why don’t my printer colors match my monitor? Why doesn’t my TV have a yellow adjustment? Welcome to the confusing world of what makes color what it is. I was taught that the primary colors were red, yellow and blue and that black is the absence of color and white is the presence of all colors, were you? When I became an adult and entered the enlightened age I found out it was all lies, well maybe not lies, but at least misconceptions.  As it turns out the red, yellow and blue thing was true for most of the applications that I use, such as paint, but in that theory, also known as subtractive color theory, white is the lack of color, not the presence of all color. Subtractive color is the theory that applies to paint, plastic and die and most opaque finishes.

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Now light theory, the one used for TV, video, monitors has another set of primaries and it is called additive color theory because all color ads up to equal white. Ha! That is the one they tried to pass off as subtractive color theory in grade school. Light color theory primaries are red, green and blue, note that it does not include yellow that is why you can’t find a yellow adjustment on your TV.

 

Now I will throw in another confusing set of primaries, printing uses four primaries, CYMK or to the layman they are C for Cyan (a blue green), Y for Yellow and M is for Magenta (a blue cast red) and K is for Black. Notice I stuck that K in there to confuse you? In printing K indicated the key plate or the black plate as basic printing has a plate for each color. Printing primaries are also subtractive color theory but are complements of Additive color theory, Red, Green and Blue.

 

Armed with this knowledge you can see (maybe not so easily) why you can’t match a magazine photo to a paint color, a picture on your computer screen to your printer or any combination of theories you may encounter. The technology is getting better each day so there is hope, hopefully understanding the basics will help you show off the next time you visit a paint store and explain to the person standing next to you at the paint chip display what makes those beautiful colors.

 

~This post inspired/contributed by ColorGuild. ColorGuild, the global paint and color authority, is a member based organization serves as a definitive resource on color and coatings.  As a member of ColorGuild, we welcome their contributions and appreciate their opinions.

 

 

 

 

 

Caulk failure is the loss of the protective moisture seal due to the loss of initial adhesion and flexibility.

Good caulk will help you save energy, avoid moisture damage and prevent pest problems. The best caulk for the job depends on the situation. If you didn’t get it right the first time around, there are ways to improve and fix caulk failure.

 

There are three types of caulk failure: adhesive, cohesive, and substrate. Simply put, the bond between the caulk and the substrate can fail, the caulk itself can tear, or the substrate can break. Problems with caulked joints are commonly due to one of two errors. Either the substrate was not effectively prepared, or the wrong product was selected. Consider how it will be used before choosing a product.

 

First, consider what materials the joint is made of and how much movement it is likely to encounter. Silicone, for example, adheres well to glass and tile but poorly to wood. Although products with different chemistries claim to be flexible, some are better suited for frequent joint movement. For most interior painting, 100 percent acrylic caulks, are recommended. They will seal cracks and adhere to most surfaces, even when moisture is present. Paint won’t stick to pure 100 percent silicone caulk. Remember that caulk generally is not recommended for gaps that exceed .5″ wide at their midpoint.

 

To spearhead the problem from the beginning, try priming. Priming is essential for better adhesion, sheen uniformity, mildew control, and durability. We recommend an undercoat to help ensure the caulk will have the best chance to succeed. Then select a top quality  interior paint in the color and sheen of your choice.

 

 

~This post inspired/contributed by ColorGuild. ColorGuild, the global paint and color authority, is a member based organization serves as a definitive resource on color and coatings.  As a member of ColorGuild, we welcome their contributions and appreciate their opinions.